Saturday, September 6.  Sukhothai National Park: the name of this 13th century capital literally translates to Dawn of Happiness.  The Phra Achana Buddha in the Wat Si Chum Temple is a must!

Next came an unscheduled stop at a small craft village teeming with household and farm items from days of yore.  Favorite find: a 78 year old lady turning out brightly colored silk sarongs and shawls bobbin by bobbin. Second favorite: a cafe displaying a 1950’s television console cabinet – you know, the kind with sliding front doors to conceal the screen when not in use – that had been turned into a fully functioning fish tank!  So-o much better than TV!

Si Satchanalai Chaliang National Park, the ancient kingdom’s second most important city, abounds with trees, ponds, flowing streams, temples in the Khmer style, Buddhas and elephant sculptures galore.  Do not miss the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum.  Genius!

Laan Chula, in Sukhothai, is the best place for crispy ruby fish with mango salad. And when Kay bursts into rapid fire Thai, as she reviews the day’s preparations, dinner turns into an even bigger foodie adventure as both chef and owner, Khun Tee and Khun Bangkorn, turn out their very best for our Thai speaking farang.  Laughter flows and so do the green chilies. Is there any other way to travel?

Sunday, September 7 Checking out of Sukhothai’s Tharaburi Resort was sad.  This boutique hotel is a genuine find: unseen frogs singing in the night, lily ponds everywhere, charming rooms, a lovely saline, infinity pool and Wi-Fi!  To pass through this understated lobby is to enter into a simpler world.  Do not stay anywhere else in Sukhothai.  I promise you will not be disappointed.

Next stop: the FAE Elephant Camp in Lampang –the first ever elephant hospital.  We arrived in time for the show. Here, the mahouts (elephant trainers) clearly display their love for their elephant wards – twelve today, ranging in age from 68 years old to 18 months, parading and playing in unison.  The final event can be described as nothing less than performance art. Two elephants with paints, brushes, canvases and easels created drawings that your four year old could not have done!  I had to have both paintings and won both at auction.  The proceeds benefit the Friends of Elephants foundation that cares for this unique family of orphaned and rescued elephants.  Now, that’s a souvenir!

Kay chatted up our mahout during an elephant trek through the forest and discovered a variety of edible flora. Before I knew it, this twosome had hatched yet another detailed FAE plan for our TFA travelers.  I shall leave it to you to discover for yourselves when you book with us for January.  Highlight of the day: Playing with frisky Seven, a 14 month old pachyderm, as his 26 year old mother looked on.  No worries, we fed them both bunches of tiny bananas in abundance.  We could have stayed all day, ogling mother and child, but much more awaits in our unbelievably amazing Thai Food Adventures

Off to Chang Mai for a little shopping and checking into Puripunn, yet another stunning boutique hotel. De Meers: an exclusive cashmere shop chock full of silk and cashmere rugs, wallhangings, bedspreads, shawls, cushions and more. Unable to resist a little something for myself, I sifted through the trove of masterfully woven treasures.  I won’t reveal my purchase.  You’ll just have to visit De Meers and make your own selections.   Ask for Bhatt and Odeile.  Tell them Travel by Design sent you and be prepared to part with that credit card! You won’t regret a single purchase.  Borisoothi Antiques: Owned and run by Lt. Col. Suwan Borisuthi and his wife Lt. Nandhana Borisoothi.  There is serious shopping to be had in this museum quality shop.  Kay immediately spied an antique coconut grater and snatched it up for her kitchen in London.  I eyed a few golden items but had to show restraint following my stint at De Meers! However, if you are serious about antiques large and small, Borisoothi is the stop to make.  Note: No need to fret about carrying an extra bag for your newly purchased treasures. Everything can be shipped, delivery fees included and arrival dates guaranteed.

Puripunn Bay Grand Boutique Hotel – a four year old respite lovingly built from scratch by a young, passionate Bangkok couple, Aat and Pinky Viravaidhya, in an historic section of Chiang Mai – should not be kept a secret. Kay and I were treated to an open air Khoa Soi cooking lesson by Puripunn’s executive chef.  Khao Soi is a savory chicken curry dish indigenous to Chang Mai.  I am telling you, every chef in Thailand loves our Khun Kay!  If healthy, brilliant Thai cuisine is your cup of tea, come along next time and see for yourself.  Our Khao Soi dinner was followed by salimm and tubtim krob, a typically Thai dessert of water chestnuts and delicious fruit jellies marinated in a chilled coconut milk.  Arroy jing jing!

Dinner was followed by Chiang Mai’s Tanon Kon Dern, better known to foreigners as the weekend market. Live musicians, scarves, fruit, exotic leathers, silks, linens, dresses, hand embroideed fabrics, cool drinks, satays, lamps, handcrafted sandals and shoes, silver, lacquer, umbrellas and fans – all in Chiang Mai style – overflow the stalls at night. If you can imagine it, it can be found at the Tanon Kon Dern!

Monday, September 8 Check out of Puripunn Baby Grand Boutique Hotel and head to Waroros Market near Ping River for fresh everything: fish, fruit, vegetables, desserts, meats, snacks, dried fruits, herbs and spices and so much more.  Wararot Market is a feast for all one’s senses. Ping River Flower Market is the largest one I have ever seen, winding around the river streets for blocks and blocks.  We returned later for armloads of roses. BPP stands for Border Patrol Police who protect the Thai borders from drugs and maintain the peace. King Rama IX and the Royal Family show their support through projects like Hill Tribe Products Promotion Center, a brilliant craft shop.  All of the proceeds go back to the tribes in support of their crafts and their efforts on the borders.  And the quality reigns supreme!

Check into The Chedi for a completely zen experience.

Lunch at Samoe Jai for the best northern noodle curry in Chaing Mai. Naturally we had a bit more: Chicken Satay, green papaya salad – Som Tom, and spicy minced pork salad – Laarp. Arroy jing jing!

Next?  Our guide, Aoi, convinced her mother, Khun Tavee, to prepare afternoon snacks at their home on the ooutskirts of Chiang Mai.  I am not exaggerating even the teeniest bit when I say that Aoi’s mother’s pumpkin fritters (tordmun fuktong) and banana flower fritters  (tordmun hua plee) and Pandanus Leaf Tea  (Cha bai Toei) are Chaing Mai’s best! Khup kun kha, Khun Tavee!

Dinner at Puong Thong, owned and operated by Anchalee and Mali Thiaree, Kay’s good chums.  Spiciest salad ever!  Yum Kratiem (yum = salad):  baby garlic, cashews, fresh lime juice, squid, shrimp, lettuce, fresh coriander and small hot green chilles.  Very hot.  Moo Namkem: Pork ribs braised for all day with star anise, casia bark and other spices in a salty broth.  The pork just fell off the bone.  Delicious.  Bla Tort Takrai: steamed fish with hot green pepper corn clusters still on the branch, tamarind, lemon grass, garlic, fish sauce and sugar.  Stir fry of mixed fresh vegetables. Look for Anchalee’s beautifully illustrated cookbook: Cuisine de Ma Mere.

I know I promised four days at a clip but I have been traveling like a banshee this trip and it is time to bid good night to all.  More tomorrow, I promise.  In the mean time, let me leave you with a few useful Thai words:

Rroy jang who: delicious, in southern Thai dialect;  Arroy jing jing: delicious in the north and central plains; Sawadee kha-a: a lovely hello and good day greeting; Khup kun kha: thank you.

Sawadee kha from Hua hin!